Author: judy

I do not have IQ so I can’t tell you in Intelliquilter terms, but Linda Lawson has a video about lining up my Pictogram Patterns and you will find some excellent tips in that video. You can see it on Longarm Chat.  http://longarmchat.com/index.cfm/event/Video.Home

Click on the title to read some  “nitty gritty” information that may help as you plan the layout on your screen.

Background information for Pictograms:
1.  Each panel was originally drawn at 11″ x 36.”  Depending on what size you are going to make it, you’ll need to adjust the following information accordingly.

2.  All our patterns have a 3″ registration system. That means, if you had the hard copy, you could slide each ensuing paper panel to the right or left in increments of 3″ ( eg. 6″, 9″, 12″ etc.) and they will still “fit” together.

3.  With this registration system the stitching line reaches up to the top line every 3 inches. (If it isn’t visible, imagine a line across the top).

4.  The stitching line reaches down to the bottom line every other 3 inches. (Imagine a line across the bottom.)

5.  MeadowLyon Pictograms are not designed to interlock, they just come up or down to the line.  It gives the effect of interlocking, but does not cross the line!

6.  Yes, you can put each panel right on top of itself and it will work.  But, you probably won’t want the panel to be placed exactly above itself or the animals and other motifs will be on top of themselves.

7.  I recommend choosing the second or third panel to begin the second row.  Make sure the “up” points fall between the “down” points. (You’ll probably put the second row on the    screen and simply move it to where it looks good and nothing touches where it shouldn’t.)

As you look at previews of our Pictograms on this website, you will see the ups and downs clearly. For example,  in the “Backwoods” pattern you’ll notice some mountain peaks, etc. that go up to the top line and see the spaces above them.  Then you’ll see feet of animals or etc. coming down to the bottom line and notice space beneath them on the next panel.  With each row simply slide the panels to where the peaks come up under a space or etc. But do not try to interlock, or cross the line.  It’s not necessary and may cause overlapping.

A.  2 ROWS INTERLOCKING WITH STRAIGHT ROLL as printed on paper rolls

Alignment instructions:  IT’S AS EASY AS “1 – 2 – 3”

1. After completing the first two rows across, lower your needle into any “dot” #1.

Leaving the needle down, Advance (roll) the quilt into position for the next two rows across.

2. With the needle still down, adjust the laser light or stylus to the closest “dot” #2.

The light is now correctly placed.

3. Lift the needle and move the machine to a starting position of your choice at the edge of the quilt.

Begin quilting.

B.  2 ROWS WITH SOME LASER MOVEMENT as p[rinted or paper rolls such as El Dorado 4.5″, and El Dorado 8″

Alignment instructions:  IT’S AS EASY AS “1 – 2 – 3”

1. After completing the first two rows across, lower your needle into any “dot” #1.

Leaving the needle down, Advance (roll) the quilt into position for the next two rows across.

2. With the needle still down, adjust the laser light or stylus to the closest “dot” #2 towards the “left.”

The light is now correctly placed.  (For alternate rows move the laser to the #2 towards the right.

3. Lift the needle and move the machine to a starting position of your choice at the edge of the quilt.

Begin quilting.

Some laser lights have limited adjustment capabilities.  Some patterns may require shifting the paper pattern for proper alignment.

A.  ONE ROW INTERLOCKING WITH STRAIGHT ROLL as printed on paper rolls for patterns  Grapes of Moldova, Russian Gold, etc.

Alignment instructions:  IT’S AS EASY AS “1 – 2 – 3”

1. After completing the first row across, lower your needle into any “dot” #1.

Leaving the needle down, Advance (roll) the quilt into position for the next row across.

2. With the needle still down, adjust the laser light or stylus to the closest “dot” #2.

The light is now correctly placed.

3. Lift the needle and move the machine to a starting position of your choice at the edge of the quilt.

Begin quilting.

B.   ONE ROW INTERLOCKING WITH SOME LASER MOVEMENT as printed on patterns such as Frothy Seas, El Dorado, etc.

Alignment instructions:  IT’S AS EASY AS “1 – 2 – 3”

1. After completing the first row across, lower your needle into any “dot” #1.

Leaving the needle down, Advance (roll) the quilt into position for the next row across.

2. With the needle still down, adjust the laser light or stylus to the closest “dot” #2 towards the “left.”

The light is now correctly placed.  (For alternate rows move the laser to the  #3 towards the right.

3. Lift needle and move machine to a starting position of your choice at the edge of the  quilt.

Begin quilting.

Some laser lights have limited adjustment capabilities.  Some patterns may require shifting the paper pattern for proper alignment.

PICTOGRAM ALIGNMENT as printed on paper rolls

Aligning MeadowLyon Pictograms:

Congratulations!  You’ve purchased a “Pictogram” – MeadowLyon’s unique 12 ft. non-repeating roll.  You’ll have lots of pictorial material from which to choose.  Its four panels can be arranged to create a scene, of sorts, on a wall hanging or small quilt.  Also, extended rows can be repeated above or below to cover a quilt with Edge-to-Edge quilting.

We recommend starting alternate rows at the beginning of a different panel each time.  This will prevent the motifs from standing on top of themselves.  Of course you can start alternate rows wherever you like. Our registration system prevents upper and lower rows from touching when you slide the pattern in increments of 3 inches;  eg. 3”, 6”, 12” etc.

For accurate placement, align the bottom line* (or dots or corner points) to the previous top line.  You might do this by lowering the needle at the exact top right hand corner of the panel recently completed, then inserting a pin at that point.  Roll the quilt and after shifting the pattern and replacing the clamps, move your needle once again to that point and adjust the laser to the lower right corner of the new panel.

Caution: if you leave a space there will be a space – it’s best to match the lines with your laser, then slide the machine across the quilt to see if any stitching falls above the line and adjust slightly if needed.

* Note: If your pattern does not have a bottom and top line, you can draw it in by laying a yardstick along the lowest points (or highest) on the paper pattern and drawing a line to intersect with the dashed line at the end of the pattern.

If you are transferring the designs to stitch on a home sewing machine or to embroider by hand you may find these methods helpful:

CENTERING – MeadowLyon Block Patterns have  “centering lines”  for easy placement.    I think the easiest way to find the center of a square is to draw lines with a disappearing marker or simply a length of thread, diagonally both ways,  from corner to corner.  Poke a pin through the center of the pattern into the center indicated on the fabric.  Using the “centering lines”,  measure* to assure they are parallel to the outer lines of the fabric “block.” ( * Of course I  “eyeball” it and you probably will too!)

TRACING – Place the paper pattern on a light box, an empty picture frame with glass, or a window.  Tape in place.  Next place the fabric over it and center it using the convenient centering cross-lines.  Tape in place.  Trace the design onto the fabric with  a.) a washable marker or washable fabric marker;  b.) a disappearing marker;  c.) tailor’s chalk pencil;  d.) a carbon leaded pencil that will wash out.  There are lots of great products on the market! You can even get a white Clover marker to use on dark fabrics.

TRANSFERRING BY CARBON – On a hard surface, place a transferring medium such as dressmaker’s carbon* or “Saral” carbons over the fabric.  Next place the paper pattern on top and trace over it with a ball point pen or stylus.  (* Personally I do not like the carbon that is purple.  It’s wet and smears all over!)

CREATE A STENCIL – Option A – Stitch through the paper pattern and after placing it on the fabric use a pounce pad to make through the “stencil.”  This is convenient if you need to transfer the same design many times.  Option B – Lay :” Bridal Tulle” over the pattern and trace with a fine line, permanent marker.  When you want to transfer the pattern, lay the Tulle over the fabric, pin in place,  and draw over the line with a chalk pencil.  The chalk line will go through the holes of the Tulle to the fabric.

TRANSFER PENCILS – The latest tool is a great one. The transfer pencil (made by Fons and Porters and other brands too) create an iron-on stencil just like the old embroidery transfers.  Simply turn the block pattern over, place it on a light box or window, and draw the line on the back of the block.  When you’ve finished you’ll be able the place the block (right side up) over your fabric and “iron on” the stitching line.

TEAR AWAY –  Option A – Trace the design from the pattern onto a tear away paper such as that sold through Golden Threads.  Adhere the tissue to your fabric with pins or spray adhesive.  Sew through the paper and tear away.  Option B – Lay “Press n’ Seal” plastic wrap over the paper pattern.  Trace the design onto the film with a washable marker*.  Stick the film to your fabric and stitch through it.  Tear away.  ( * Always test the marker in a trial run first.  Vis-a-vis markers for transparencies, Dry erase markers and permanent markers work well on the film, BUT, if you are using a long-arm machine, the heat of the needle may “set” vestiges of marker in your fabric.)

LONG-ARM MACHINE QUILTING – Of course you can place the pattern on the bed of your quilting machine table and follow the line with your laser or pointer.  If you’re working from the front of the machine, DeLoa Jones suggests you place the pattern on a cookie sheet and adjust the laser to the page.   You’ll still need to find the center of the block and direct your laser to that point.  Then you can move to one of the starting points on the continuous-line block pattern and begin stitching.